PRODUCER: Smith-Madrone Vineyards
REGION: Spring Mountain, Napa, California, USA
WINEMAKERS: Stu Smith, Charles Smith, François Bugué (assistant)
WINERY HISTORY
A visit to Stuart and Charles Smith’s winery, high up on Spring Mountain, is like a journey back to the halcyon days of 1970s Napa Valley. This is not the land of high-tech winemaking, fancy tasting rooms, and slick marketing – this is a down-to-earth, honest, and authentic wine estate that has remained largely unchanged since it was established five decades ago. It wasn’t until the Smith brothers began clearing their 15ha of woodland, bought after Stu had finished his masters in winemaking at UC Davis, that they discovered evidence of previous viticultural activity on the site. It transpired that their land had been under vine from the 1880s until Prohibition, being reclaimed by nature over the subsequent years. That this would have been an early site of Napa viticulture will come as no surprise to anyone visiting the estate today – Smith-Madrone is blessed with some of the most breathtaking vineyards in all of Napa Valley.
VITICULTURE & WINEMAKING
The winery is headed by Stu, the founder and general manager. A man of forthright conviction, the intensity of his opinions is matched only by his belief in making unforgettable wines. A long-term champion of sustainable dry-farming – but passionately opposed to modern biodynamic practices – the decades old vines of Smith-Madrone define the style of Napa before the critic-led changes of the ‘90s and ‘00s. The vineyards of Smith-Madrone are found on varying aspects, each planted with a specific variety in mind to ensure fruit of the highest calibre. Eastern exposures for the Riesling, sunny south-and-western exposures for the Cabernet Sauvignon, and cool north-facing slopes for the Chardonnay ensure optimal ripening for the grapes.
The Cabernet is a classically styled Napa Valley red wine, full bodied and robust but with great acidity and true Cabernet Sauvignon varietal character (there is also a little Merlot and Cabernet Franc in the blend). Aged for 22-months in American oak, just over 1,000 cases are bottled unfined and unfiltered. The Riesling is racy and beautifully balanced, with a backbone of juicy fruit acidity and minerality. Wonderfully stylish, this wine can be enjoyed right now or up to twenty years in the future. The Chardonnay is delightfully refreshing, with bright notes of citrus, orange blossom, and stone fruit alongside just a bit of toasty deliciousness. Incredible on its own, it is also a fantastically versatile pairing wine.
