Smith-Madrone Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

Smith-Madrone are one of the last true vanguards of 'Old Napa.' Founded in 1978 and run to this day by brothers Stu and Charles Smith, their estate high up on Spring Mountain is a callback to the days of California wine before the arrival of tech billionaires. Long-term champions of sustainable agriculture, the duo continue to produce wine in much the same way they always have. Balanced and elegant, their Cabernet is amongst the last few true value reds in the Napa Valley. Defined by restraint as opposed to opulence, this Cabernet is loaded with Old California charm. Frankly ridiculous value in a region now dominated by £200+ wines.

97/100 - From brothers Stu and Charlie Smith comes their 2021 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon from Spring Mountain, a precise blend of 81.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17.7% Cabernet Franc, and 0.4% Petit Verdot. Aged for 18 months in 65% new French oak, with only 1,652 cases produced, this wine showcases the meticulous dry farming of their 15.4-hectare vineyard at a 579-metre elevation, with vines dating back to 1971. The 2021 vintage is yet another testament to their mastery, offering a purity and elegance that define these Cabernets, with impeccable structure for long-term cellaring. In 2021, the tannins are firm, soaring, built like sky-scrapers, yet remarkably well-integrated. The nose offers a beautiful black cherry and red currant potpourri, mingling with pressed wildflowers, sage, capsicum, and tobacco leaf. Juicy plum fruit intertwines with a graphite minerality, and while there’s notable density to the fruit, a fine backbone of crunchy acidity imparts a stunning lightness and lift. Readers seeking Napa Cabernets from the 2021 vintage with serious cellaring potential should consider stocking up on Smith Madrone's offerings, as these '21s are true cellar-worthy gems. - Jonathan Cristaldi, Decanter

93+/100 - Marked on the nose by subtle herb and floral notes, the cherry-scented 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is medium to full-bodied in the mouth, framed by firm tannins that promise a long evolution. Thankfully, the tannins are ripe and silky on the finish, where that dusty quality is joined by attractive hints of licorice. It's a classic Spring Mountain Cab, capable of 20 years of cellaring. - Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate

94/100 - A staunch defender of the restrained, elegant style of Napa reds made in the 1970s, yet with a little more body and ripeness than wines from that era. Tasty, tangy black cherries and blackberries with accents of bay leaves, black olives, cedar and star anise. Firm tannins, good acidity and the potential for aging. Drinkable now, but best from 2029. - Jim Gordon, JamesSuckling.com