PRODUCER: Jolie-Laide Wines
REGION: Sonoma, Napa, Chalone, Suisun Valley; California, USA
WINEMAKERS: Scott & Jenny Schultz
"These remain some of the most unique, compelling wines being made in Sonoma today. I can't recommend them highly enough." - Antonio Galloni
Freedom and variety are – perhaps - the greatest strengths of the California wine industry. Few wineries better exemplify this mercurial essence than Jolie-Laide. Operated since 2010 by husband-wife winemaking duo Scott and Jenny Schultz, Jolie-Laide has been turning heads since its earliest days. The name is perfectly indicative of the ethos of the winery. While ‘Jolie Laide’ might be translated as ‘pretty ugly,’ it also emphasises the maturity and vision it takes to find beauty in the unique.
WINERY HISTORY
Jolie-Laide started out as a one-man operation based in Sebastopol, California. In his first vintage, Scott Schultz made 500 cases of wine and has slowly ramped that up to about 3000 cases. Today, it is a family affair with his wife Jenny Schultz also behind the helm. One of the things that makes California’s wine scene so inspiring is the freedom that so many young winemakers have to embark on their own projects. Of course, not all of these prove to be a success, but Jolie Laide did so with the full backing and confidence of Pax Mahle (one of the state’s star winemakers and owner of the Wind Gap label).
Scott continues to work alongside Pax, but his Jolie-Laide label has already turned enough heads to suggest that the wines will go on to become some of the most sought-after in the state, electrifying the palates of those lucky enough to try them. Production is microscopic and collectors and sommeliers are falling over themselves to get an allocation. The tension, complexity and concentration of the wines is such, that it is no surprise Scott is being heralded as one of California’s most exciting winemakers.
VITICULTURE & WINEMAKING
A true example of ‘New California,’ lots about Jolie-Laide isn’t ‘new’ at all. In the words of Scott, “the do-nothing approach isn’t new by any means; it’s just funny how far many have gotten away from it.” By placing their focus on finding great fruit from sustainably farmed sites, the duo create wines of alluring tension, complexity, and concentration. The winemaking is simple, distinguished by low intervention techniques. The fruit is harvested much earlier than most in California, around a month before typical harvest. This preserves natural acidity, keeping the wines fresh and bright with low alcohol levels.
Foot crushed, whole cluster fermented, and aged in neutral oak, each wine reveals the singularity of its site and vintage. All ferments are done with native yeasts and the grape musts tend to be higher acid, allowing for no added SO2 at the press, and minimal at bottling. In their pursuit of free expression and personal growth, each wine receives a new label every year. Painted by local artists across the Bay Area, the imagery pays tribute to the distinctness of each vintage. No two bottles of Jolie-Laide are ever exactly the same. Rather, each taste is a celebration of the year and seasons in which they are made. Already some of the most sought-after wines in the state, it is no surprise that Jolie-Laide is being heralded as one of California’s most exciting producers.
GRAPE VARIETIES
Gamay, Syrah, Melon de Bourgogne, Pinot Gris, Trousseau Gris, Valdiguie
IN THE PRESS
"Jolie-Laide is one of the most exciting new projects I have come across in some time. Proprietor Scott Schultz cut his teeth as a sommelier at Bouchon, in Yountville. That led to a cellar job at Realm and then to Pax Mahle's Wind Gap, where he is an Assistant Winemaker. Jolie-Laide is a loose translation of the French 'unconventionally beautiful' but that doesn't really apply here, as the wines are gorgeous by any measure. At many times throughout this tasting I was reminded of the young Champagnes of Cedric Bouchard - these wines have a very similar sense of crystalline purity. The wines are made with a high percentage of whole clusters, generally crushed by foot and largely aged in neutral oak. Production is tiny. Readers who can find these wines should not hesitate, as they are nothing short of magnificent." - Antonio Galloni
