PRODUCER: Mayacamas Vineyards
REGION: Mount Veeder, Napa Valley, California, USA
WINEMAKERS: Braiden Albrecht
Founded in 1889 and carved into the side of a dormant volcano crater, Mayacamas stands as a beacon of Napa history, renowned not only for its location atop the majestic Mount Veeder but also as one of America's most iconic wineries. Over its illustrious history, this mountain-top estate has remained unwavering in its commitment to traditional winemaking, producing some of California's most celebrated and enduring wines. As its name, taken from the mountain range dividing Napa and Sonoma and meaning 'call of the mountain lion,' suggests, Mayacamas has always been intrinsically linked to its terroir. Famed for its elegant, ageworthy Cabernet and Chardonnay, the winery has continuously championed wine purity, resisting fleeting trends in favour of time-honoured techniques passed down through generations.
WINERY HISTORY
Mayacamas is one of Napa's oldest and most iconic wineries, with a history dating back nearly 140-years. Having weathered earthquakes, fires, and the challenges of Prohibition, the estate witnessed a resurgence in 1941 when Englishman Jack Taylor breathed new life into it and christened it with its current name. The winery's true renaissance, however, commenced with Bob Travers in 1968. Travers, a former trainee at the iconic Heitz Cellars and a protégé of the legendary Andre Tchelistcheff, brought with him an unrivalled depth of knowledge and tradition. Under his guidance, Mayacamas soared to new heights, notably with its showcase during the landmark 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting, solidifying its reputation as one of California's premier wineries. The narrative took another turn when the Schottenstein family stepped in, purchasing the estate in 2013. They faced the aftermath of the 2017 wildfires, subsequently entrusting the winemaking legacy to Braiden Albrecht in 2018.
VITICULTURE & WINEMAKING
The key to Mayacamas’ success lies – like so many other great wineries – in its incredible terroir. Located in the crater of a long-extinct volcano at 550-750m above the fertile soils of the Valley,its vineyards produce low yields of intensely concentrated grapes. This elevated location gifts the estate with a unique terroir characterised by the volcanic soils of Mount Veeder, a by-product of ancient eruptions, intermixed with patches of fossilised seabed. This rich diversity of soils provides complexity and character to the wines. The altitude and rugged hillside terrain allow for a longer growing season compared to the Napa Valley floor, offering grapes extended time to develop intricate flavours. Importantly, the estate's position near the San Pablo Bay introduces cooling influences, which temper the grapes, ensuring balance between acidity and ripeness. In a testament to their commitment to nature, innovative viticultural practices are embraced at Mayacamas, including dry and no-till farming, which bolster soil health while reducing carbon footprints and excess use of water.
Guided by the expertise of Braiden Albrecht and consulting winemaker Andy Erickson, Mayacamas remains steadfast in its pursuit of authenticity over industry trends. With a nod to the legacy laid down by Bob Travers, fermentation is carried out in concrete tanks, harnessing native yeasts without relying on artificial interventions. The wines are then aged, first in venerable wooden casks reminiscent of those favoured by traditional Barolo producers, and then in aged barrels. This restrained extraction and absence of new wood, alongside a modest alcohol content, produces wines that, while reserved in their youth, unfurl with age into expressions of ethereal elegance. This timeless approach stands in contrast to the more opulent styles proliferating in the Valley, ensuring Mayacamas' wines remain distinctive in character and pedigree.
The Chardonnay is almost entirely whole cluster pressed, fermented alternatively in 225L French oak, 500L Puncheon, 1000L foudre, and 1000L neutral Austrian oak. It opens with lifted aromatics of chamomile, yuzu, and marzipan. Packed with plenty of drive and energy, the palate is compact and focused with delightful notes of citrus, white peach, and distinct minerality. The Cabernet is entirely destemmed before being fermented in concrete (65%) and stainless steel (35%). It is then aged in large format foudre (10hL-45hL) for 20 months, as well as 14 months in 228L French oak barrique. This Cabernet is not like the overwrought fruit bombs commonly found in California, but rather a refined bottling that can rival the greatest Clarets. An elegant wine of detail and nuance, it packs an incredible punch of wild dark berries alongside notes of lilac, dried sage, and graphite. Each bottle of Mayacamas wine indicates not just an endeavour of excellent winemaking, but a dedication to the history and spirit of one of the world’s great wine regions. The changing of deed to the Schottenstein family in 2013 has altered the winery little, with Chardonnay and Cabernet of dazzling structure and complexity continuing to be produced.
IN THE PRESS
"This commitment to a hands-off approach helps endow the Mayacamas wines with a longevity in the bottle that their higher-alcohol counterparts will not experience – at least not with the same balance and beauty.
The endgame here is clearly centred on these wines going the distance – and doing so at reasonable prices, considering the quality of fruit and winemaking one is getting with a purchase of a Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon." - Matthew Luczy, Decanter
"The resulting wines are somewhat emblematic of "old" Napa, but as the pendulum of wine style swings back in that direction, perhaps they have been ahead of the curve all along. Despite coming from young vines—the bulk of the vineyards have been replanted since 2013—these are taut, concentrated wines that should reward cellaring, much like their historic predecessors." - Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate
