PRODUCER: Domaine Peyre Rose
REGION: Languedoc-Roussillon, France
WINEMAKERS: Marlène Soria
At the time of Marlène's first vintage in 1991, Languedoc wines were largely considered substandard table wines. Marlène’s talent, however, was immediately evident, leading to recognition from then king-of-wine Robert Parker in addition to being named the 1994 Revue du vin de France’s ‘Man of the Year.’ Quickly climbing the ranks of France’s most well-regarded vignerons, Marlène continues to garner rave reviews from consumer and critics alike.
WINERY HISTORY
Situated in the heights of Saint-Pargoire – a small commune between Montpellier and Bezieres – lies the Domaine Peyre Rose. Purchased in the 1970s as a vacation home for then-real estate agent Marlène Soria, she quickly learned that her beautiful country estate had once been largely under vine. After this revelation, Marlène decided to revitalize the property, planting 17ha of Syrah over the subsequent years. In electing to forego the common practice of planting Carignan – the prevailing local variety – Marlène displayed the first signs of the mercurial winemaking spirit that continues to define her bottlings. Beginning her work in 1980, Marlène originally intended to produce small-batch wines for friends and family to enjoy on their visits. Organic from the outset, the first vintage of Domaine Peyre Rose was released in 1991.
VITICULTURE & WINEMAKING
Today, the estate has grown to 25ha, with 70% of the land dedicated to red varietals. Small parcels of Roussanne, Rolle, and Viognier are blended to make the incredible ‘Oro,’ aged for at least a decade before release. ‘Clos des Cistes’ and ‘Syrah Leone’ are both Syrah dominant, with the grape comprising 85% of the blend. In ‘Clos des Cistes’ the balancing agent is Grenache, while Mourvèdre helps ‘Syrah Leone’ sing. After fermenting in tank, the wine is moved to foudre for several years after which - only when Marlène decides it is ready - the wine goes back into tank before being bottled without fining or filtration. All the wines are capable of aging prodigiously, typically being released 8-10 years from the vintage alongside small allocations of some even older vintages. Recently, after protracted legal wranglings with the authorities, Marlène has had to rename and reclassify her red cuvées as Vin de France ‘Les Cistes’ and ‘Belle Léone’ from release of the 2011 vintage. Much to our delight, however, the wine in the bottle remains identical.
IN THE PRESS
The domaine, hacked out of uncompromising limestone garrigue in the late 1980s, will only be found with difficulty at the end of a beaten track above the village of Saint-Pargoire. There is no wood, no air-conditioning (it has to generate its own electricity) and the yields rarely exceed 20hl/ha. The wine, however, is exceptional. Les Cistes (85 per cent Syrah, 15 per cent Grenache) is usually fresher and more red fruity. The Cuvée Clos Léone (95 per cent Syrah, 5 per cent Mourvèdre) is more black fruity, roasted, gamey. I think these are some of the greatest wines to come out of the Languedoc, certainly some of the most original. - Clive Coates MW, Decanter
