PRODUCER: Dosnon Champagne
REGION: Côte de Bars, Champagne, France
WINEMAKERS: Davy Dosnon
Dosnon is not a Maison caught up in the opulence of other Champagne houses. More akin to the artisanal domaines of Burgundy – where winemaker Davy Dosnon trained – this focal point of the grower movement is a far cry - literally and figuratively - from the glitzy tasting rooms of Reims or Epernay.
WINERY HISTORY
Based in Davy's hometown, the Côte de Bars village of Avirey-Lingey, Dosnon Champagne (formerly Dosnon & Lepage) released their first wine from the 2007 vintage and immediately attracted attention from savvy wine buyers looking for the next star of the grower movement. Davy Dosnon had trained as a winemaker in Beaune and made Burgundy for years before returning to his native Champagne to work for Moutard and Serge Mathieu. When his old friend Simon-Charles Lepage returned from a legal career to get involved in wine, it made sense to go into business together – Davy handling production and Simon-Charles dealing with the commercial aspects. Having now bought out Simon-Charles, Henri now runs the domaine on his own.
VITICULTURE & WINEMAKING
Dosnon currently farms seven hectares of land (two inherited, five leased) utilising organical methodology, and all wines crafted in the on-property facility. This the southernmost area of Champagne in the Pays d’Aube and was almost excluded from the region’s borders when they were drawn. The predominantly Kimmeridgian and Portlandian clay-limestone soils are reminiscent of Chablis, producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of the highest quality. They contribute to wines that shine with superbly rich aromas and flavours that only improve with age. In some ways, the bottlings of Dosnon are almost Chablis-with-bubbles, mineral-packed deliciousness present in every taste.
Davy’s wines are considered amongst the Côte-des-Bar’s best and that comes as no surprise to those that have witnessed his meticulous approach to winemaking. His method is noticeably traditional. Pressed in an ancient basket press and vinified entirely in old Puligny-Montrachet barrels, the wines are marked by an intrinsic sense of depth. Apart from the Recolte Brute and the Alliae, bottlings are 100% single varietal, revealing wines which embody the true essence of the terroir. Aging varies depending on cuvee, though it is never less than twenty months and can last up to a decade. Dosnon is meticulous, with wines only being released after reaching remarkable freshness and fullness. Dosage is variable, depending entirely on Dosnon’s feel for the vintage, and is often extremely low if used at all.
