If the most thought-provoking and evocative wines are often born in marginal climates, it is hard to imagine a vineyard sitting further on the fringe of California’s quality viticulture than Trout Gulch.
Located in the southern reaches of the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, on the foothills of the ridge overlooking the Pacific Ocean, this remote site remains under the radar of many wine lovers. Yet its racy, saline Chardonnays (reminiscent of top Chablis) are attracting a growing following among critics and collectors alike.
Dry-farmed and planted between 1977 and 1980, the 26-hectare vineyard lies a mere 3.5 miles from the coast on a south-facing slope. The terroir here consists of that rare confluence of proximity to cold ocean water, morning fog, vast redwood forests and free-draining sandy-loam soils. Redwood forests in particular have a key role, acting as a sort of natural sponge that traps moisture and briny sea air before releasing it slowly into the atmosphere. The result is one of California’s longest growing seasons, with harvest stretching well into October or even November in cool vintages like 2023.
